Namibia - a family holiday in the Desert
The open road, endless sky and sea of sand. Oryx running wild & skeletons scattered along the way. Red sand between my toes and gritting between my teeth. Hot and dry.
I have loved Namibia passionately since my dad took us on a family trip when I was an impressionable teen. I remember the great distances and the soulfulness of the landscape (as well as all the books I read en route). Namibia has one of the lowest population densities on Earth. My lovely Swedish friend Camilla who is married to a Namibian says she thinks of it as "Mother Nature without makeup on." Which is not to say she isn't beautiful. She is so beautiful. So beautiful it hurts.
We stopped en route at a favourite spot -- Goegap Nature Reserve. This little known gem just outside of Springbok offers the best value for money anywhere. What's more we had the place entirely to ourselves. Perhaps people assumed it would be too hot in December? It was a very pleasant 28 degrees celsius and we had a spectacular 3 bedroom chalet for the princely sum of 600 South African Rand!
We enjoyed a family hike over the hot rocks amidst quiver trees and vistas. Topped off with a sunset meditation that brought such balm and reconnection. Honestly all I ever want to do is wander in Nature. It is THE remedy. As we sipped on iced honeybush and mint tea we knew that this holiday would be memorable.
The last time we were at Goegap we were on our way to Augrabies to bury my brother. Somehow that's already 4 years ago and, as is the nature of Grief, the journey is ongoing. He had been on his way to Namibia but an expired passport put paid to his dying wish to live his last in that desert wonderland.
Our next stop was over the border at Ai-Ais Hot Springs on the Fish River. This old spa is a little the worse for wear but it didn't stop us from having a delicious frolic in the large outdoor pool. An extra little treat was T finding a "twin" -- a girl from Joburg who sported the exact same dreads. Oh what joy! It's these chance encounters with fellow travellers that enrich travel immeasurably.
After taking in the geological wonder that is the world's second largest canyon -- the Fish River Canyon -- and trying to digest the genocide of the Nama people we pushed on North to Betta Camp.
The moonscape shifts imperceptibly inviting the eyes to rest on its ever changing hues and textures. Betta camp boasts a very friendly oryx named Willem who followed me everywhere. Also a gorgeous sunset lookout with very groovy repurposed bathtubs. An unfortunate group of rude South Africans got aggressive with a sweet couple of campers when asked to turn down the noise. We had the chance to try and make amends for our countrymen by offering hot water in the morning. I remember being similarly mortified in Mozambique last year by drunk and disorderly behaviour. Sartre's "Hell is other people" came to mind. Although being in such a sparsely populated landscape also makes you appreciate another human like little else. We came across a sweet Qubecois couple with no less than 2 flat tyres. She embraced me with tears in her eyes both for the smattering of French and for the assistance. Often we'd drive all day without seeing even one other vehicle.
Onwards to the Namib-Naukluft Park and the oldest, highest dunes on Earth. We stayed in a fab spot called Desert Quiver Camp which was reasonably priced since the children stayed free. Swimming in the middle of the blazing desert was an absolute treat and a reminder that people can also do startlingly awesome things. That evening we climbed Dune 45 and wondered at the privilege of having these ancient rust coloured dunes, so powerfully present yet always moving, beneath our feet.
It was Christmas eve and we exchanged small meaningful gifts. It was one of my favourite Christmases yet. The children were so delighted and the connection tender and true. It felt far removed from the consumerism that I can't stomach. We'd heard that day that an 8 year old Youtuber made $26 million unboxing toys in 2019. The horror. An evening meditation on the red rocks behind our tent with that particular light that suffuses the desert in the early evening replete with crescent moon and evening star was the gift my soul most desired.
We were up before dawn to reach Dead Vlei early enough to climb Big Daddy Dune and it was absolutely worth it. The views of dunes extending in all directions was something to behold. It was quite a thing to make it to the summit in the heat and shifting sands but we did it! Walking down the dune felt a bit like descending from heaven. The sound that emanated from our sliding steps akin to the vibrations of a didgeridoo. Even after wading downwards for an age we were still higher than the dunes unfolding all around us. Crossing the white cracked earth of Dead Vlei to the ancient fossilised trees was also spectacular. We had been to see the latest Star Wars just before embarking on our journey and often on this trip it felt that we were intergalactic visitors on these "other worlds."
A real Christmas pressie to me was staying at the lovely We Kebi Safari Lodge an hour from the park. What luxury! Absolutely beautiful rooms -- such pretty design and antique details. My room had a writing desk with the stains of ink pots and quills of yore. My daughter was in her seventh heaven with the menagerie of friendly resident animals, including a baby calf that frolicked with the dogs and best of all a mongoose that wouldn't leave her alone. It followed her everywhere squeaking until she'd sit down and cuddle him. When I found her digging holes with him and his fellow mongooses, helping to find their supper, I knew she'd found her tribe. This was also our only catered stop on the Namib leg of our journey. Truly a relief not to have to manage food for our family in the heat. The staff were just delightful too.
Our next stop was Luderitz -- a bit of a godforsaken, waterless, windblasted outpost founded on land theft and a diamond rush. En route we saw the fearfully skinny desert horses that were once abandoned by miners and somehow eke out an existence in this harshest of environments.
We stayed in a delightful AirBnB in one of the old German buildings that give Luderitz its charm. It has a glorious bookcase filled with the works of German philosophers as well as a handy visitor's file full of the crazy tales of early prospectors. Downstairs was the Diaz Coffee Shop with truly the most delicious chocolate cake. This after having stopped in Helmeringhausen en route for "the best apple cake." A good cake day!
We were up early the next morning to explore the Ghost Town par excellence at Kolmanskop. Another insane diamond lust outpost. It has been consumed by desert and makes for excellent photos as well as inspiration -- Jack immediately felt prompted to write a short story entitled "Night at Kolmanskop." I remember feeling so haunted by it on my previous visit. Now I enjoyed the details of hand painted art deco wall treatments and the reminder that Nature prevails.
Shelley's Ozymandias comes to mind
We made it across the border and to our base camp at Fiddler's Creek for the five day Orange River trip with Bushwhacked.
But let me tell the tale of the River of Life in another post.
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 |
| Dead Vlei Qi Gong |
We stopped en route at a favourite spot -- Goegap Nature Reserve. This little known gem just outside of Springbok offers the best value for money anywhere. What's more we had the place entirely to ourselves. Perhaps people assumed it would be too hot in December? It was a very pleasant 28 degrees celsius and we had a spectacular 3 bedroom chalet for the princely sum of 600 South African Rand!
We enjoyed a family hike over the hot rocks amidst quiver trees and vistas. Topped off with a sunset meditation that brought such balm and reconnection. Honestly all I ever want to do is wander in Nature. It is THE remedy. As we sipped on iced honeybush and mint tea we knew that this holiday would be memorable.
The last time we were at Goegap we were on our way to Augrabies to bury my brother. Somehow that's already 4 years ago and, as is the nature of Grief, the journey is ongoing. He had been on his way to Namibia but an expired passport put paid to his dying wish to live his last in that desert wonderland.
 |
| My little ones in Goegap en route to Augrabies (2015) |
After taking in the geological wonder that is the world's second largest canyon -- the Fish River Canyon -- and trying to digest the genocide of the Nama people we pushed on North to Betta Camp.
The moonscape shifts imperceptibly inviting the eyes to rest on its ever changing hues and textures. Betta camp boasts a very friendly oryx named Willem who followed me everywhere. Also a gorgeous sunset lookout with very groovy repurposed bathtubs. An unfortunate group of rude South Africans got aggressive with a sweet couple of campers when asked to turn down the noise. We had the chance to try and make amends for our countrymen by offering hot water in the morning. I remember being similarly mortified in Mozambique last year by drunk and disorderly behaviour. Sartre's "Hell is other people" came to mind. Although being in such a sparsely populated landscape also makes you appreciate another human like little else. We came across a sweet Qubecois couple with no less than 2 flat tyres. She embraced me with tears in her eyes both for the smattering of French and for the assistance. Often we'd drive all day without seeing even one other vehicle.
Onwards to the Namib-Naukluft Park and the oldest, highest dunes on Earth. We stayed in a fab spot called Desert Quiver Camp which was reasonably priced since the children stayed free. Swimming in the middle of the blazing desert was an absolute treat and a reminder that people can also do startlingly awesome things. That evening we climbed Dune 45 and wondered at the privilege of having these ancient rust coloured dunes, so powerfully present yet always moving, beneath our feet.
It was Christmas eve and we exchanged small meaningful gifts. It was one of my favourite Christmases yet. The children were so delighted and the connection tender and true. It felt far removed from the consumerism that I can't stomach. We'd heard that day that an 8 year old Youtuber made $26 million unboxing toys in 2019. The horror. An evening meditation on the red rocks behind our tent with that particular light that suffuses the desert in the early evening replete with crescent moon and evening star was the gift my soul most desired.
We were up before dawn to reach Dead Vlei early enough to climb Big Daddy Dune and it was absolutely worth it. The views of dunes extending in all directions was something to behold. It was quite a thing to make it to the summit in the heat and shifting sands but we did it! Walking down the dune felt a bit like descending from heaven. The sound that emanated from our sliding steps akin to the vibrations of a didgeridoo. Even after wading downwards for an age we were still higher than the dunes unfolding all around us. Crossing the white cracked earth of Dead Vlei to the ancient fossilised trees was also spectacular. We had been to see the latest Star Wars just before embarking on our journey and often on this trip it felt that we were intergalactic visitors on these "other worlds."
A real Christmas pressie to me was staying at the lovely We Kebi Safari Lodge an hour from the park. What luxury! Absolutely beautiful rooms -- such pretty design and antique details. My room had a writing desk with the stains of ink pots and quills of yore. My daughter was in her seventh heaven with the menagerie of friendly resident animals, including a baby calf that frolicked with the dogs and best of all a mongoose that wouldn't leave her alone. It followed her everywhere squeaking until she'd sit down and cuddle him. When I found her digging holes with him and his fellow mongooses, helping to find their supper, I knew she'd found her tribe. This was also our only catered stop on the Namib leg of our journey. Truly a relief not to have to manage food for our family in the heat. The staff were just delightful too.
Our next stop was Luderitz -- a bit of a godforsaken, waterless, windblasted outpost founded on land theft and a diamond rush. En route we saw the fearfully skinny desert horses that were once abandoned by miners and somehow eke out an existence in this harshest of environments.
We stayed in a delightful AirBnB in one of the old German buildings that give Luderitz its charm. It has a glorious bookcase filled with the works of German philosophers as well as a handy visitor's file full of the crazy tales of early prospectors. Downstairs was the Diaz Coffee Shop with truly the most delicious chocolate cake. This after having stopped in Helmeringhausen en route for "the best apple cake." A good cake day!
We were up early the next morning to explore the Ghost Town par excellence at Kolmanskop. Another insane diamond lust outpost. It has been consumed by desert and makes for excellent photos as well as inspiration -- Jack immediately felt prompted to write a short story entitled "Night at Kolmanskop." I remember feeling so haunted by it on my previous visit. Now I enjoyed the details of hand painted art deco wall treatments and the reminder that Nature prevails.
Shelley's Ozymandias comes to mind
I met a traveller from an antique land,
Who said—“Two vast and trunkless legs of stone
Stand in the desert. . . . Near them, on the sand,
Half sunk a shattered visage lies, whose frown,
And wrinkled lip, and sneer of cold command,
Tell that its sculptor well those passions read
Which yet survive, stamped on these lifeless things,
The hand that mocked them, and the heart that fed;
And on the pedestal, these words appear:
My name is Ozymandias, King of Kings;
Look on my Works, ye Mighty, and despair!
Nothing beside remains. Round the decay
Of that colossal Wreck, boundless and bare
The lone and level sands stretch far away.”We made it across the border and to our base camp at Fiddler's Creek for the five day Orange River trip with Bushwhacked.
But let me tell the tale of the River of Life in another post.
Subscribe to Foot Sore & Fancy Free by Email
And please verify your email address (check your junkmail!)
Thanks :)
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