Tibetan Buddhist Haven

As I walked down a street in Mysore a tiny girl came running with a wide smile and offered me a little branch bearing what I think were green chickpeas. This sweet gesture encapsulated the Mysorian warmth that so touched my heart. I bade farewell and boarded a bus to Bylakuppe.
The road is undergoing some serious repair and it was a bumpy 3 hour ride. I eventually arrived in what felt like the middle of nowhere after dark and not a light in sight. I sat down and felt a bit wretched. Tired, hungry, run down, with nowhere to go.
Then I spotted a Western woman and monk. They were buying chocolate cake from a candlelit roadside stall.
I quickly approached them and immediately felt embraced by their good humour and kindness. The Universe certainly provides. They explained that in fact there is nowhere to stay in Bylakuppe...this may be why the Lonely Planet fails to mention it! While Bylakuppe is home to many monasteries and Tibetan refugees, the Indian government makes it near impossible for foreigners to stay here. A permit is required and can take 4 months to secure.
However, given the lateness of the hour and the desperation in my tired face, they kindly offered to house me at the monastery's guesthouse.
The Dalai Lama and Richard Gere had been visiting the previous week and everything looks great. No rubbish, lots of maroon clad monks, including hordes of little ones who give the sweetest smiles I've ever seen.
I woke at 5am to join them in the temple for chanting. It was so delightful to watch these tiny boys singing their hearts out. I've also learnt a bit about the different Buddhist sects, what a day-in-the-life of a monk is like and am currently at the Golden Temple which is quite spectacular.
I honestly feel a world away from India.